One of the most wonderful weeks of our lives was spent in a small quaint little village in the south of France called Crillon-le-Brave. At Hotel Crillon-le-Brave, one of two inns, our charming room looked out over the local vineyards with Mont Ventou in the background. This is the country of Louis Malle, the late husband of Candice Berghan who wrote and directed one of the best films of all times, Au Revoir Les Enfants. This film is his childhood memoire of life in a small town Catholice school that harbors Jewish males during WWII. Here in the heart of Provence we enjoyed "le bonheur" by exploring daily markets, local cuisine, and some excellent wine, bien sur. I have no doubt why Van Gogh was so attracted to this area of France.

Magnificent Roman aqueduct, built at the end of the 1st century B.C. this structure carried water from Nimes to Uzes. Built over the River Gardon. There is a nearby hotel with a beautiful restaurant overlooking the river and the acqueduct - very pictoresque. Built at the end of the 1st century B.C., this structure carried water from Nimes to Uzes.



L'Arc de Constantin
This was the termination of the Roman Way. It led from the city of Lyons and was erected after Caesar's victory in 49 b.c. This arc is the third largest of its kind in the Roman Empire and the best that France has to offer. Roman emperors choose Provence as their summer vacation spot - I can see why.



Rent a car and drive the countryside of Provence. One of our favorite things to do in Provence is to have a picnic. Buy a loaf of bread at the closest 'boulangerie,' a couple of good cheeses from the 'fromagerie' and maybe a saucisson (sausage) from the charcuterie and 'voila' the perfect 'déjeuner'. Of course, you've already purchased a good wine to go with your meal. Here is the town of Gordes in the picturesque Luberon region of southern France. We had a fantastic picnic here before driving to the "centre village" where there is a Renaissance chateau which contains a museum devoted to the contemporary painter Vasarely.

The interesting little town of Fréjus (and now the suburb of Plage-Fréjus) has a history that dates back to the Romans. It was established under Julius Caesar as a naval base, then later under St. Raphael it became a refuge for veterans. It was here in the port of Fréjus that the defeated ships of Anthony and Cleopatra were brought after their defeat in 31 AD at the Battle of Actium. This picture is of one of the few places we found open on Sunday at noon. Amazingly, this quaint little town was more populated during the 1st century BC than it is today. Roman walls once circled the city and the harbor that was at one time so important has long since dried up and been filled in. Yet it still remains charming to visit.

As with any European "vieille ville", the church steeple is always the highest point and center of town. The oldest part is the baptistry which was built in the 4th or 5th century. The main structure is early from the 10th century, but the most promenant parts, the choir stalls, the carved doors and a wooden crucifix on the left side of the entrance are Renaissance. Be sure and visit the, relics here are of the 12th to 14th centuries.


Mont St. Michel - Reknowned for its lamb which takes a unique flavor from the ocean-fed pastures, this unique village consists of one long, winding cobblestone path crowded with brasseries serving moules et frites (mussels and fries), patisseries which bake 'Gateau de Bretagne'(a luscious butter cookie), and the usual tourist shops. At high tide, this monestary-town becomes an enchanted island, totally surrounded by the Atlantic. If you can pinch pennies elsewhere on your trip, it's worth the splurge to stay here, especially on a stormy night with someone you enjoy being close to!



Visit the ancient walled city of St. Malo which dates from the 12th century. Take a stroll around the ramparts for a breathtaking view. The center of town is named for the Romantic novelist, Chateaubriand, who was born here in 1768. His tomb, accessible only at low tide, is located on nearby Grand Bé Island.


If you are near the Normandy region, you must visit the American Cemetery. It's a most touching experience to see not only sooo many white crosses but the actual beach where D-Day took place. I had students with me here and literally had to drag the boys back to the bus to leave. Before going, watch the movie Saving Private Ryan for a better appreciation of what our soldiers went through to liberate France. Also, try reading The Longest Day.


Not far from Paris is the playground of kings and queens for centuries. This is the location of the beautiful chateaux that France is known for. Take for instance Chateau Chenonceau, or the Chateau of 7 Women. Originally built by a wealthy financier, this remarkable castle eventually became the dwelling of Diane de Poitier, mistress of Henri II, king of France. It seems that Henri inherited Diane and the crown from his father, Francois I, a real Renaissance man. Diane, 19 years his senior, served as friend, lover and confidant until he was struck down by an ill-placed lance during a jousting tournament with his knights. After languishing for days, the young Henri died and with his untimely death his wife and queen, Catherine de Medici forced the beautiful and inspiring Diane from Chenonceau. Catherine took the castle for her own and swiftly untook cosmetic changes, mainly to overlay her huband's initial 'H', carved everywhere, with her own double 'C.' The end result, a double 'D'(for her adversary Diane) proved fatal for the Italian queen and she eventually lost her senses.

One of the highlights of the Loire Valley is Chateau Chambord, an imposing Renaissance structure built in the 16th century by Francois I. It contains 440 rooms and 365 chimneys, one for every day of the year! Within the structure one finds the striking double-spiral staircase thought to be designed by Leonardo de Vinci whom Francois lured from Italy in his last years. This chateau was originally built as a hunting lodge by the king, who wanted to have the local river rerouted to serve his dwelling. When it was determined by engineers to be too vast an adventure, Francois abandoned the idea.


Chateau Chinon - It's here that the courageous 17 year old Jeanne d'Arc visited the dauphin, Charles VII in 1429 and convinced him to place her in charge of the French troops against the English in the100 Years War. If you haven't watched the movie, you're missing something. To the left is the Great Hall where, disguised in a crowd, Jeanne miraculously picked him out and won his favor. Could the teenage Jeanne d'Arc have possibly known what fate awaited her? Injured, sold to the English, imprisoned, she would within 2 years be labeled a 'sorciere' and burned alive in the French town of Rouen (also known for the infamous carriage ride of Madame Bovary by Flaubert)

What could be a better Christmas present than a trip?
That's exactly what my husband and I did for each other this year. We decided on the quaint medieval town of Antibe, found a small flat to rent via internet, cashed in the frequent flyer miles and off we flew to sunny skies and mild weather. This time of year was wonderful - no tourists! Danny, our landlord (I say this because for one week we considered his apartment our home) picked us up at the Nice airport and took us to the flat. He then gave us a quick 15 minute tour of the surroundings with helpful information like where to find the best bakery, the best restaurants, the market area, etc. Making sure that we had his phone number in case we needed anything, he left us to explore this enchanting town that for centuries was the center of squabble between various factions on the Mediterranean. It proved to be exactly what we were looking for in this trip.

Located on the Mediterranean Sea not Nice joins her sister town of Juan-les-Pins to provide one of the last peaceful refuges for the truly rich and famous. The "quai des Milliardaires" houses some of the most luxurious oceangoing yachts in the world. Vine-covered security walls surround multimillion dollar villas, some are even said to have helicopter pads for expedient arrival, or departure. Among the wellknown who have lived and played, and in a few cases died in this area are Greek tycoon Aristotle Onassis, the duke of Windsor, authors Graham Greene and Nikos Kakzantzaki who wrote "The Last Temptation of Christ", muscian Jacques Prévert, psychoanalyst Carl Junger and painter Pablo Picasso.

Late one morning while visiting the market at Masséna the sound of many car horns alerted us to the arrival of a mariage entourage. The beautiful bride and her French prince charming were headed for the Hotel de Ville(city hall) to confirm the first of two parts of their marriage ceremony (the second to take place at their local church).

Talk about fresh - can't you just imagine these robust fowl crying out "Eat More Beef!". Rotissaried chicken is truly a hot commodity here, as in all of France. But beware - Americans, you will pay at least double the price you're accustomed to. What you get in France is poultry, not the mass-produced, chemical fed lot that's prevalent in our society.




If entering Antibes via Nice or Cagnes the first landmark to be encountered is the Fort Carrre situated protectively in the harbor and reminiscent of times and tales long since passed. This impregnable eight-pointed bastion now serves as a monunent to Napoléon, who used this as a stop-over from Elba to Waterloo - maybe he should have stayed a little longer!




Stroll along the 17th century Port Vauba in the early to mid-morning hours when the sunlight is at its best for a breathtaking view. It's no wonder that this area attracted artists and authors alike. The air is pure, the colors are vibrant, the climate is mild year round. French author Guy de Maupassant used to anchor his "Bel Ami" here. If you haven't read his short story "The Pearl" it's a nice divergence.



Separating the port from the Vieille Ville are the 17th century ramparts built by the Romans. This particular entrance, the smallest, is known as la Porte marine and was for centuries the only entrance to the town from the sea. Along Quai Rambaud outside of the ramparts you can find the Chantier Naval Opera (museum) which houses some of Jacques Cousteau's relics from the Calypso and welcomes each year an international music festival. To the right, upon entering the porte you find yourself in front of le boulevard d'Aguillon, one of the most animated "rues" of Antibes. The fountain d'Aguillon pays homage to the military personnel who provided for the citizens of Antibes a water "pure et limpide".


Continuing into the Vieille Ville from the ramparts, you find yourself on la Tourraque Masséna, in the midst of a host of outdoor cafés and bars. This ancient street leads to the Market a few hundred yards away. The buildings which line a Tourraque Massena are some of the most famous of the Cote d'Azur. Besides dating from the Middle Ages, the one at #21 was the site of Napoleon's marriage to an Antiboise. It is here that he occupied himself as merchant of soap and olive oil before embarking upon his infamous military career. On certain days, antique vendors fill these cobblestone streets -





Rising watchfully against the clear blue sky of Antibes is the belfry of the former cathedral. Nearby Roman walls have protected the Old Town designed by Vauban.





Across from the belfry is the Musée de la Tour, a museum of local history and traditions. This medieval tower, though not terribly interesting does house the first water skis, invented locally in 1930. This would have been a nice view from on high, but it is rarely open.








Château Grimaldi is today home to the Picasso Museum. This forboding medieval mass still supports it's 12th century Romanesque tower.







Alongside Château Grimaldi is the present day Cathedrale d'Antibes. Built on the site of an ancient temple, this structure boasts a Baroque facade while the choir and apse are Romanesque from the Middle Ages. We are fortunate to have attended Mass here.