Friday, July 31, 2009
Sunday, March 30, 2008
Have you ever thought about buying one of those vacation clubs? I never gave them a second thought, but on the recommendation of some dear friends in whom we have the utmost trust and admiration, JBP and I signed on the dotted line and bought into the Hilton Grand Vacation Club. With it we spent one of the best family vacations ever. Our destination - Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. En Avion! Everyone boarded the same flight, nonstop from Dallas, this was a pleasant 2 1/2 - 3 hour flight. From the airport, we rented a van and made the hour trek to our resort, the Fiesta Americana where we had reserved 2 two-bedroom condos. Overlooking the ocean, this was a little piece of heaven. Each morning, a beautiful sunrise presented itself. This is a view from our deck.
The Fiesta Americana was the perfect resort for us. Plenty of room to spread out for a little alone time, wonderful local cuisine and the pools - infinity pools everywhere! This is where we enjoyed most of our time with the babies - at the ankle deep part of the pool, honing swimmming skills in the deeper water, napping with one or the other in a hammock, even painting a piece of pottery to take home as a souvenir.
There's something in Cabo for everyone of any age and in just about any price range. Taxis are extremely expensive however and grocery stores are few and far between, so plan ahead. Cabo is known for its' sport fishing. What a sight to see each morning as the skippers of a legion of boats head out in unison for open waters. In late winter months, you can watch the whales migrating south. Golf courses abound, but again, the better ones are quite pricey. We had access to the Cabo del Sol course, designed by Jack Nicklaus.
One of the highlights of the trip was a sunset dinner cruise aboard the catamaran Rissalena. Family-owned and operated, this is a must do. A client of JBP recommended it to us - she goes regularly to Cabo and Always takes this excursion, and likewise, we have highly recommended it to several of our friends. Dinner was authentic, fresh and delicious. Drinks are included, the crew was most congenial and the guacomole was some of the best we've ever had. Close-up views of El Arco were incredible. They say that every 5-7 years the tide goes out so low that you can walk from the beach all the way out to this remarkable rock formation. The last event was in 2007, so looks like we'll have to wait a while.
The Fiesta Americana was the perfect resort for us. Plenty of room to spread out for a little alone time, wonderful local cuisine and the pools - infinity pools everywhere! This is where we enjoyed most of our time with the babies - at the ankle deep part of the pool, honing swimmming skills in the deeper water, napping with one or the other in a hammock, even painting a piece of pottery to take home as a souvenir.
There's something in Cabo for everyone of any age and in just about any price range. Taxis are extremely expensive however and grocery stores are few and far between, so plan ahead. Cabo is known for its' sport fishing. What a sight to see each morning as the skippers of a legion of boats head out in unison for open waters. In late winter months, you can watch the whales migrating south. Golf courses abound, but again, the better ones are quite pricey. We had access to the Cabo del Sol course, designed by Jack Nicklaus.
One of the highlights of the trip was a sunset dinner cruise aboard the catamaran Rissalena. Family-owned and operated, this is a must do. A client of JBP recommended it to us - she goes regularly to Cabo and Always takes this excursion, and likewise, we have highly recommended it to several of our friends. Dinner was authentic, fresh and delicious. Drinks are included, the crew was most congenial and the guacomole was some of the best we've ever had. Close-up views of El Arco were incredible. They say that every 5-7 years the tide goes out so low that you can walk from the beach all the way out to this remarkable rock formation. The last event was in 2007, so looks like we'll have to wait a while.
Saturday, March 29, 2008
Hong Kong, a city comprised of several islands, is home to around 7 million people. Founded as a trading port in the 19th century, she was a crown colony of Great Britain from 1842 until 1997 when she was given over to the People's Republic of China.
We splurged on this leg of our trip and stayed at the Intercontental Hotel which overlooks Victoria Harbor, a real gem, especially at night. Because our stay in Hong Kong was short, we choose to take a half-day tour by bus from the htel. It was an excellant way to see the highlights of the city in a minimum amount of time. Following are the highlights of the tour:
Victoria Peak which offers a stunning view of the harbor below and of Kowloon Island afar. The Peak, as it's known, is one of the world's most expensive neighborhoods - serving bank and corporate execs. Accessible by tram today, this 1,299 foot point was reached by colonists before 1888 by human energized sedan chairs. There are a variety of walking paths available. Victoria Tower sits atop the Peak and houses gift shops, restaurants, Madame Toussaud's and most importantly, restrooms.
Aberdeen Fishing Village, home to 700 fishermen and their families who live on their boats 24/7. Named after the earl who was Secretary of State for the Colonies in 18848, it has a character all its' own. The fishermen and their junks or sampans exist in this natural typhoon shelter. They are but a remnant of what used to be a very large community living in stark contrast to the nearby city dwellers.
Dynasty Jewelry Manufacturing where I purchased a beautiful strand of pearls. Because Hong Kong has no natural resources to draw from, she imports precious and semi-precious gems, pearls, etc. from the world over. Reknowned artisans turn these raw materials into jewelry of the finest quality and then resell them to us.
Stanley Bay, a charming area that gives out onto the Sea of China. Visit the open-air market, stroll the festive streets, or relax in one of many excellent restaurants and savor the local specialities.
We splurged on this leg of our trip and stayed at the Intercontental Hotel which overlooks Victoria Harbor, a real gem, especially at night. Because our stay in Hong Kong was short, we choose to take a half-day tour by bus from the htel. It was an excellant way to see the highlights of the city in a minimum amount of time. Following are the highlights of the tour:
Victoria Peak which offers a stunning view of the harbor below and of Kowloon Island afar. The Peak, as it's known, is one of the world's most expensive neighborhoods - serving bank and corporate execs. Accessible by tram today, this 1,299 foot point was reached by colonists before 1888 by human energized sedan chairs. There are a variety of walking paths available. Victoria Tower sits atop the Peak and houses gift shops, restaurants, Madame Toussaud's and most importantly, restrooms.
Aberdeen Fishing Village, home to 700 fishermen and their families who live on their boats 24/7. Named after the earl who was Secretary of State for the Colonies in 18848, it has a character all its' own. The fishermen and their junks or sampans exist in this natural typhoon shelter. They are but a remnant of what used to be a very large community living in stark contrast to the nearby city dwellers.
Dynasty Jewelry Manufacturing where I purchased a beautiful strand of pearls. Because Hong Kong has no natural resources to draw from, she imports precious and semi-precious gems, pearls, etc. from the world over. Reknowned artisans turn these raw materials into jewelry of the finest quality and then resell them to us.
Stanley Bay, a charming area that gives out onto the Sea of China. Visit the open-air market, stroll the festive streets, or relax in one of many excellent restaurants and savor the local specialities.
Monday, March 17, 2008
When in the Paris region, you must visit the medieval town of Chartres, renowned for its' Gothic cathedral. The original structure was destroyed in 743 when the Duke of Aquaitaine quarrelled with Charles Martel's sons and sacked the entire town. Before this, it is believed that 4th century Christians worshiped on this spot. In 1194 the structure was again destroyed except for the crypts, western towers and Royal Portal. Later in the 1200's with the decline of the feudal system, merchant brotherhoods donated their labor and materials for the needed reconstruction. Their 'signatures' are represented in 43 of the stained glass windows, timeless evidence of the dedication of the French to their cathedrals. It is of significance to notice that by the time the second tower was completed, architectural style had changed from Romanesque to Gothic.
During World War II, the stained glass windows were removed and stored until the German occupation was over. How fortunate that today we can appreciate the beautiful 'bleu' of Chartres that remains impossible to duplicate. These masterpieces were created by adding metal to molten glass: copper for red, cobalt for blue, antimony for yellow, manganese for purple, and iron for green.
If you plan to visit Chartres, your tour will not be complete without an escort by Malcolm Miller, the most knowledgable person alive on this structure. He is a retired English gentilman and charges only a nominable fee. I've even retained him for student visits and everyone was amazed at the what they learned. Mr. Miller has published a beautiful book, available for purchase on site and he will sign it.
Be sure, too to appreciate the Labrynth where pilgrims of ages past crawled on knees to repent for their sins.
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Lovers of art and nature can't miss the opportunity to visit Monet's home at Giverny only a short drive or train ride from Paris. Although none of his personal paintings are here (they're mostly in Paris at l'Orangerie) you can see the many oriental works that Monet himself collected. The house is charming, the gardens are ever changing and the Japanese Bridge still stands just as it did long ago.
Everyone visiting France for the first time wants to see the stupendous palace of Versailles that helped bankrupt the entire country and bring on the French Revolution, yet few seem aware of l'Hameau de Marie Antoinette,the charming hamlet that exists within the grounds (a little walk of 1 mile so allow enough time!). There is a train that will take you there, but why do that when you can get some good exercise after all those rich pasteries and cheese. Here the Queen would seek the solitude unattainable at Versailles with her intimate friends. Rid of the confining garments of the court, Marie would pretend to be a citoyenne who tended a garden and gathered fresh eggs for breakfast. If you'd like to learn more about the misunderstood Queen of France, read "Marie Antoinette, The Last Queen of France" by Evelyne Lever it will give you a new appreciation for a most misunderstood pawn of history. By the way, she never said, "Let Them Eat Cake!"
During World War II, the stained glass windows were removed and stored until the German occupation was over. How fortunate that today we can appreciate the beautiful 'bleu' of Chartres that remains impossible to duplicate. These masterpieces were created by adding metal to molten glass: copper for red, cobalt for blue, antimony for yellow, manganese for purple, and iron for green.
If you plan to visit Chartres, your tour will not be complete without an escort by Malcolm Miller, the most knowledgable person alive on this structure. He is a retired English gentilman and charges only a nominable fee. I've even retained him for student visits and everyone was amazed at the what they learned. Mr. Miller has published a beautiful book, available for purchase on site and he will sign it.
Be sure, too to appreciate the Labrynth where pilgrims of ages past crawled on knees to repent for their sins.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lovers of art and nature can't miss the opportunity to visit Monet's home at Giverny only a short drive or train ride from Paris. Although none of his personal paintings are here (they're mostly in Paris at l'Orangerie) you can see the many oriental works that Monet himself collected. The house is charming, the gardens are ever changing and the Japanese Bridge still stands just as it did long ago.
Everyone visiting France for the first time wants to see the stupendous palace of Versailles that helped bankrupt the entire country and bring on the French Revolution, yet few seem aware of l'Hameau de Marie Antoinette,the charming hamlet that exists within the grounds (a little walk of 1 mile so allow enough time!). There is a train that will take you there, but why do that when you can get some good exercise after all those rich pasteries and cheese. Here the Queen would seek the solitude unattainable at Versailles with her intimate friends. Rid of the confining garments of the court, Marie would pretend to be a citoyenne who tended a garden and gathered fresh eggs for breakfast. If you'd like to learn more about the misunderstood Queen of France, read "Marie Antoinette, The Last Queen of France" by Evelyne Lever it will give you a new appreciation for a most misunderstood pawn of history. By the way, she never said, "Let Them Eat Cake!"
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Flexibility - that's one of the most important things I've learned traveling. When a delayed flight to Turkey caused me to miss a connecting flight, I was fortunate to be "stuck" in Amsterdam, a vibrant city full of charm and history. One day soon I will return and spend a respectable amount of time. I will savor her extraordinary cheeses, bicycle along lazy canals and ponder the Dutch masters. Yes, I will avoid the redlight district and the "Coffeehouses!" For the time being, however, let me share with you the souvenirs of a whirlwind 3 hour cruise!
The Portuguese Synagogue - when it was constructed in 1675, this was the largest in the world. The interior is still intact, candlelit services are held weekly and a gift shop offers unique Judaica articles.
The canals - for the most part constructed during the 17th century, these were the reason for Amsterdam's thriving trade for centuries. They define the city in both appearance and character. This city possesses 'gezelligheid' or a special intimacy. It is open and accepting, a tradition that is rooted in it's Calvinist past.
De Rembrandt Hoeve - Tours are given daily and samples available at this cheese factory - unfortunately due to hoof and mouth disease, cheese could not be sold while I was there. Good thing for me though, that was just fewer pounds to loose on my return home.
De Rembrandt Hoeve also houses a clog factor - wooden shoes are still made and worn in the Netherlands. Red shoes are for dancing, yellow ones for working and those painted black are worn to work. I bought a special carved pair which are wedding shoes, worn once and then put away for posterity.
Visit a windmill - the orginal source of energy for the city of Amsterdam. This is the oldest remaining one, built in the early 1600's.
Anne Frank's House - harboring Anne, her parents and four other individuals for 25 months, this dwelling was raided in 1944 by the Nazis. Anne and the others were sent to extermination camps and after 9 months, Anne died of typhus at the young age of 15
Western Church - from the belltower of this church, Amsterdam's tallest, Ann Frank kept count of the hours and days that she spent in hiding with her family, passing some of the time by writing in her diary. Completed in 1631, Western Church houses the tomb of the reknowned painter, Rembrandt.
Stoeltie Diamond Factory - established in 1664, this 'gem' offers guided tours and private shopping extravaganzes. Watch as skilled diamond cutters perform their art and learn about the special cut that is indigenous to Amsterdam.
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The Portuguese Synagogue - when it was constructed in 1675, this was the largest in the world. The interior is still intact, candlelit services are held weekly and a gift shop offers unique Judaica articles.
The canals - for the most part constructed during the 17th century, these were the reason for Amsterdam's thriving trade for centuries. They define the city in both appearance and character. This city possesses 'gezelligheid' or a special intimacy. It is open and accepting, a tradition that is rooted in it's Calvinist past.
De Rembrandt Hoeve - Tours are given daily and samples available at this cheese factory - unfortunately due to hoof and mouth disease, cheese could not be sold while I was there. Good thing for me though, that was just fewer pounds to loose on my return home.
De Rembrandt Hoeve also houses a clog factor - wooden shoes are still made and worn in the Netherlands. Red shoes are for dancing, yellow ones for working and those painted black are worn to work. I bought a special carved pair which are wedding shoes, worn once and then put away for posterity.
Visit a windmill - the orginal source of energy for the city of Amsterdam. This is the oldest remaining one, built in the early 1600's.
Anne Frank's House - harboring Anne, her parents and four other individuals for 25 months, this dwelling was raided in 1944 by the Nazis. Anne and the others were sent to extermination camps and after 9 months, Anne died of typhus at the young age of 15
Western Church - from the belltower of this church, Amsterdam's tallest, Ann Frank kept count of the hours and days that she spent in hiding with her family, passing some of the time by writing in her diary. Completed in 1631, Western Church houses the tomb of the reknowned painter, Rembrandt.
Stoeltie Diamond Factory - established in 1664, this 'gem' offers guided tours and private shopping extravaganzes. Watch as skilled diamond cutters perform their art and learn about the special cut that is indigenous to Amsterdam.
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Friday, March 14, 2008
One of the most wonderful weeks of our lives was spent in a small quaint little village in the south of France called Crillon-le-Brave. At Hotel Crillon-le-Brave, one of two inns, our charming room looked out over the local vineyards with Mont Ventou in the background. This is the country of Louis Malle, the late husband of Candice Berghan who wrote and directed one of the best films of all times, Au Revoir Les Enfants. This film is his childhood memoire of life in a small town Catholice school that harbors Jewish males during WWII. Here in the heart of Provence we enjoyed "le bonheur" by exploring daily markets, local cuisine, and some excellent wine, bien sur. I have no doubt why Van Gogh was so attracted to this area of France.
Magnificent Roman aqueduct, built at the end of the 1st century B.C. this structure carried water from Nimes to Uzes. Built over the River Gardon. There is a nearby hotel with a beautiful restaurant overlooking the river and the acqueduct - very pictoresque. Built at the end of the 1st century B.C., this structure carried water from Nimes to Uzes.
L'Arc de Constantin
This was the termination of the Roman Way. It led from the city of Lyons and was erected after Caesar's victory in 49 b.c. This arc is the third largest of its kind in the Roman Empire and the best that France has to offer. Roman emperors choose Provence as their summer vacation spot - I can see why.
Rent a car and drive the countryside of Provence. One of our favorite things to do in Provence is to have a picnic. Buy a loaf of bread at the closest 'boulangerie,' a couple of good cheeses from the 'fromagerie' and maybe a saucisson (sausage) from the charcuterie and 'voila' the perfect 'déjeuner'. Of course, you've already purchased a good wine to go with your meal. Here is the town of Gordes in the picturesque Luberon region of southern France. We had a fantastic picnic here before driving to the "centre village" where there is a Renaissance chateau which contains a museum devoted to the contemporary painter Vasarely.
The interesting little town of Fréjus (and now the suburb of Plage-Fréjus) has a history that dates back to the Romans. It was established under Julius Caesar as a naval base, then later under St. Raphael it became a refuge for veterans. It was here in the port of Fréjus that the defeated ships of Anthony and Cleopatra were brought after their defeat in 31 AD at the Battle of Actium. This picture is of one of the few places we found open on Sunday at noon. Amazingly, this quaint little town was more populated during the 1st century BC than it is today. Roman walls once circled the city and the harbor that was at one time so important has long since dried up and been filled in. Yet it still remains charming to visit.
As with any European "vieille ville", the church steeple is always the highest point and center of town. The oldest part is the baptistry which was built in the 4th or 5th century. The main structure is early from the 10th century, but the most promenant parts, the choir stalls, the carved doors and a wooden crucifix on the left side of the entrance are Renaissance. Be sure and visit the, relics here are of the 12th to 14th centuries.
Mont St. Michel - Reknowned for its lamb which takes a unique flavor from the ocean-fed pastures, this unique village consists of one long, winding cobblestone path crowded with brasseries serving moules et frites (mussels and fries), patisseries which bake 'Gateau de Bretagne'(a luscious butter cookie), and the usual tourist shops. At high tide, this monestary-town becomes an enchanted island, totally surrounded by the Atlantic. If you can pinch pennies elsewhere on your trip, it's worth the splurge to stay here, especially on a stormy night with someone you enjoy being close to!
Visit the ancient walled city of St. Malo which dates from the 12th century. Take a stroll around the ramparts for a breathtaking view. The center of town is named for the Romantic novelist, Chateaubriand, who was born here in 1768. His tomb, accessible only at low tide, is located on nearby Grand Bé Island.
If you are near the Normandy region, you must visit the American Cemetery. It's a most touching experience to see not only sooo many white crosses but the actual beach where D-Day took place. I had students with me here and literally had to drag the boys back to the bus to leave. Before going, watch the movie Saving Private Ryan for a better appreciation of what our soldiers went through to liberate France. Also, try reading The Longest Day.
Not far from Paris is the playground of kings and queens for centuries. This is the location of the beautiful chateaux that France is known for. Take for instance Chateau Chenonceau, or the Chateau of 7 Women. Originally built by a wealthy financier, this remarkable castle eventually became the dwelling of Diane de Poitier, mistress of Henri II, king of France. It seems that Henri inherited Diane and the crown from his father, Francois I, a real Renaissance man. Diane, 19 years his senior, served as friend, lover and confidant until he was struck down by an ill-placed lance during a jousting tournament with his knights. After languishing for days, the young Henri died and with his untimely death his wife and queen, Catherine de Medici forced the beautiful and inspiring Diane from Chenonceau. Catherine took the castle for her own and swiftly untook cosmetic changes, mainly to overlay her huband's initial 'H', carved everywhere, with her own double 'C.' The end result, a double 'D'(for her adversary Diane) proved fatal for the Italian queen and she eventually lost her senses.
One of the highlights of the Loire Valley is Chateau Chambord, an imposing Renaissance structure built in the 16th century by Francois I. It contains 440 rooms and 365 chimneys, one for every day of the year! Within the structure one finds the striking double-spiral staircase thought to be designed by Leonardo de Vinci whom Francois lured from Italy in his last years. This chateau was originally built as a hunting lodge by the king, who wanted to have the local river rerouted to serve his dwelling. When it was determined by engineers to be too vast an adventure, Francois abandoned the idea.
Chateau Chinon - It's here that the courageous 17 year old Jeanne d'Arc visited the dauphin, Charles VII in 1429 and convinced him to place her in charge of the French troops against the English in the100 Years War. If you haven't watched the movie, you're missing something. To the left is the Great Hall where, disguised in a crowd, Jeanne miraculously picked him out and won his favor. Could the teenage Jeanne d'Arc have possibly known what fate awaited her? Injured, sold to the English, imprisoned, she would within 2 years be labeled a 'sorciere' and burned alive in the French town of Rouen (also known for the infamous carriage ride of Madame Bovary by Flaubert)
What could be a better Christmas present than a trip?
That's exactly what my husband and I did for each other this year. We decided on the quaint medieval town of Antibe, found a small flat to rent via internet, cashed in the frequent flyer miles and off we flew to sunny skies and mild weather. This time of year was wonderful - no tourists! Danny, our landlord (I say this because for one week we considered his apartment our home) picked us up at the Nice airport and took us to the flat. He then gave us a quick 15 minute tour of the surroundings with helpful information like where to find the best bakery, the best restaurants, the market area, etc. Making sure that we had his phone number in case we needed anything, he left us to explore this enchanting town that for centuries was the center of squabble between various factions on the Mediterranean. It proved to be exactly what we were looking for in this trip.
Located on the Mediterranean Sea not Nice joins her sister town of Juan-les-Pins to provide one of the last peaceful refuges for the truly rich and famous. The "quai des Milliardaires" houses some of the most luxurious oceangoing yachts in the world. Vine-covered security walls surround multimillion dollar villas, some are even said to have helicopter pads for expedient arrival, or departure. Among the wellknown who have lived and played, and in a few cases died in this area are Greek tycoon Aristotle Onassis, the duke of Windsor, authors Graham Greene and Nikos Kakzantzaki who wrote "The Last Temptation of Christ", muscian Jacques Prévert, psychoanalyst Carl Junger and painter Pablo Picasso.
Late one morning while visiting the market at Masséna the sound of many car horns alerted us to the arrival of a mariage entourage. The beautiful bride and her French prince charming were headed for the Hotel de Ville(city hall) to confirm the first of two parts of their marriage ceremony (the second to take place at their local church).
Talk about fresh - can't you just imagine these robust fowl crying out "Eat More Beef!". Rotissaried chicken is truly a hot commodity here, as in all of France. But beware - Americans, you will pay at least double the price you're accustomed to. What you get in France is poultry, not the mass-produced, chemical fed lot that's prevalent in our society.
If entering Antibes via Nice or Cagnes the first landmark to be encountered is the Fort Carrre situated protectively in the harbor and reminiscent of times and tales long since passed. This impregnable eight-pointed bastion now serves as a monunent to Napoléon, who used this as a stop-over from Elba to Waterloo - maybe he should have stayed a little longer!
Stroll along the 17th century Port Vauba in the early to mid-morning hours when the sunlight is at its best for a breathtaking view. It's no wonder that this area attracted artists and authors alike. The air is pure, the colors are vibrant, the climate is mild year round. French author Guy de Maupassant used to anchor his "Bel Ami" here. If you haven't read his short story "The Pearl" it's a nice divergence.
Separating the port from the Vieille Ville are the 17th century ramparts built by the Romans. This particular entrance, the smallest, is known as la Porte marine and was for centuries the only entrance to the town from the sea. Along Quai Rambaud outside of the ramparts you can find the Chantier Naval Opera (museum) which houses some of Jacques Cousteau's relics from the Calypso and welcomes each year an international music festival. To the right, upon entering the porte you find yourself in front of le boulevard d'Aguillon, one of the most animated "rues" of Antibes. The fountain d'Aguillon pays homage to the military personnel who provided for the citizens of Antibes a water "pure et limpide".
Continuing into the Vieille Ville from the ramparts, you find yourself on la Tourraque Masséna, in the midst of a host of outdoor cafés and bars. This ancient street leads to the Market a few hundred yards away. The buildings which line a Tourraque Massena are some of the most famous of the Cote d'Azur. Besides dating from the Middle Ages, the one at #21 was the site of Napoleon's marriage to an Antiboise. It is here that he occupied himself as merchant of soap and olive oil before embarking upon his infamous military career. On certain days, antique vendors fill these cobblestone streets -
Rising watchfully against the clear blue sky of Antibes is the belfry of the former cathedral. Nearby Roman walls have protected the Old Town designed by Vauban.
Across from the belfry is the Musée de la Tour, a museum of local history and traditions. This medieval tower, though not terribly interesting does house the first water skis, invented locally in 1930. This would have been a nice view from on high, but it is rarely open.
Château Grimaldi is today home to the Picasso Museum. This forboding medieval mass still supports it's 12th century Romanesque tower.
Alongside Château Grimaldi is the present day Cathedrale d'Antibes. Built on the site of an ancient temple, this structure boasts a Baroque facade while the choir and apse are Romanesque from the Middle Ages. We are fortunate to have attended Mass here.
Magnificent Roman aqueduct, built at the end of the 1st century B.C. this structure carried water from Nimes to Uzes. Built over the River Gardon. There is a nearby hotel with a beautiful restaurant overlooking the river and the acqueduct - very pictoresque. Built at the end of the 1st century B.C., this structure carried water from Nimes to Uzes.
L'Arc de Constantin
This was the termination of the Roman Way. It led from the city of Lyons and was erected after Caesar's victory in 49 b.c. This arc is the third largest of its kind in the Roman Empire and the best that France has to offer. Roman emperors choose Provence as their summer vacation spot - I can see why.
Rent a car and drive the countryside of Provence. One of our favorite things to do in Provence is to have a picnic. Buy a loaf of bread at the closest 'boulangerie,' a couple of good cheeses from the 'fromagerie' and maybe a saucisson (sausage) from the charcuterie and 'voila' the perfect 'déjeuner'. Of course, you've already purchased a good wine to go with your meal. Here is the town of Gordes in the picturesque Luberon region of southern France. We had a fantastic picnic here before driving to the "centre village" where there is a Renaissance chateau which contains a museum devoted to the contemporary painter Vasarely.
The interesting little town of Fréjus (and now the suburb of Plage-Fréjus) has a history that dates back to the Romans. It was established under Julius Caesar as a naval base, then later under St. Raphael it became a refuge for veterans. It was here in the port of Fréjus that the defeated ships of Anthony and Cleopatra were brought after their defeat in 31 AD at the Battle of Actium. This picture is of one of the few places we found open on Sunday at noon. Amazingly, this quaint little town was more populated during the 1st century BC than it is today. Roman walls once circled the city and the harbor that was at one time so important has long since dried up and been filled in. Yet it still remains charming to visit.
As with any European "vieille ville", the church steeple is always the highest point and center of town. The oldest part is the baptistry which was built in the 4th or 5th century. The main structure is early from the 10th century, but the most promenant parts, the choir stalls, the carved doors and a wooden crucifix on the left side of the entrance are Renaissance. Be sure and visit the, relics here are of the 12th to 14th centuries.
Mont St. Michel - Reknowned for its lamb which takes a unique flavor from the ocean-fed pastures, this unique village consists of one long, winding cobblestone path crowded with brasseries serving moules et frites (mussels and fries), patisseries which bake 'Gateau de Bretagne'(a luscious butter cookie), and the usual tourist shops. At high tide, this monestary-town becomes an enchanted island, totally surrounded by the Atlantic. If you can pinch pennies elsewhere on your trip, it's worth the splurge to stay here, especially on a stormy night with someone you enjoy being close to!
Visit the ancient walled city of St. Malo which dates from the 12th century. Take a stroll around the ramparts for a breathtaking view. The center of town is named for the Romantic novelist, Chateaubriand, who was born here in 1768. His tomb, accessible only at low tide, is located on nearby Grand Bé Island.
If you are near the Normandy region, you must visit the American Cemetery. It's a most touching experience to see not only sooo many white crosses but the actual beach where D-Day took place. I had students with me here and literally had to drag the boys back to the bus to leave. Before going, watch the movie Saving Private Ryan for a better appreciation of what our soldiers went through to liberate France. Also, try reading The Longest Day.
Not far from Paris is the playground of kings and queens for centuries. This is the location of the beautiful chateaux that France is known for. Take for instance Chateau Chenonceau, or the Chateau of 7 Women. Originally built by a wealthy financier, this remarkable castle eventually became the dwelling of Diane de Poitier, mistress of Henri II, king of France. It seems that Henri inherited Diane and the crown from his father, Francois I, a real Renaissance man. Diane, 19 years his senior, served as friend, lover and confidant until he was struck down by an ill-placed lance during a jousting tournament with his knights. After languishing for days, the young Henri died and with his untimely death his wife and queen, Catherine de Medici forced the beautiful and inspiring Diane from Chenonceau. Catherine took the castle for her own and swiftly untook cosmetic changes, mainly to overlay her huband's initial 'H', carved everywhere, with her own double 'C.' The end result, a double 'D'(for her adversary Diane) proved fatal for the Italian queen and she eventually lost her senses.
One of the highlights of the Loire Valley is Chateau Chambord, an imposing Renaissance structure built in the 16th century by Francois I. It contains 440 rooms and 365 chimneys, one for every day of the year! Within the structure one finds the striking double-spiral staircase thought to be designed by Leonardo de Vinci whom Francois lured from Italy in his last years. This chateau was originally built as a hunting lodge by the king, who wanted to have the local river rerouted to serve his dwelling. When it was determined by engineers to be too vast an adventure, Francois abandoned the idea.
Chateau Chinon - It's here that the courageous 17 year old Jeanne d'Arc visited the dauphin, Charles VII in 1429 and convinced him to place her in charge of the French troops against the English in the100 Years War. If you haven't watched the movie, you're missing something. To the left is the Great Hall where, disguised in a crowd, Jeanne miraculously picked him out and won his favor. Could the teenage Jeanne d'Arc have possibly known what fate awaited her? Injured, sold to the English, imprisoned, she would within 2 years be labeled a 'sorciere' and burned alive in the French town of Rouen (also known for the infamous carriage ride of Madame Bovary by Flaubert)
What could be a better Christmas present than a trip?
That's exactly what my husband and I did for each other this year. We decided on the quaint medieval town of Antibe, found a small flat to rent via internet, cashed in the frequent flyer miles and off we flew to sunny skies and mild weather. This time of year was wonderful - no tourists! Danny, our landlord (I say this because for one week we considered his apartment our home) picked us up at the Nice airport and took us to the flat. He then gave us a quick 15 minute tour of the surroundings with helpful information like where to find the best bakery, the best restaurants, the market area, etc. Making sure that we had his phone number in case we needed anything, he left us to explore this enchanting town that for centuries was the center of squabble between various factions on the Mediterranean. It proved to be exactly what we were looking for in this trip.
Located on the Mediterranean Sea not Nice joins her sister town of Juan-les-Pins to provide one of the last peaceful refuges for the truly rich and famous. The "quai des Milliardaires" houses some of the most luxurious oceangoing yachts in the world. Vine-covered security walls surround multimillion dollar villas, some are even said to have helicopter pads for expedient arrival, or departure. Among the wellknown who have lived and played, and in a few cases died in this area are Greek tycoon Aristotle Onassis, the duke of Windsor, authors Graham Greene and Nikos Kakzantzaki who wrote "The Last Temptation of Christ", muscian Jacques Prévert, psychoanalyst Carl Junger and painter Pablo Picasso.
Late one morning while visiting the market at Masséna the sound of many car horns alerted us to the arrival of a mariage entourage. The beautiful bride and her French prince charming were headed for the Hotel de Ville(city hall) to confirm the first of two parts of their marriage ceremony (the second to take place at their local church).
Talk about fresh - can't you just imagine these robust fowl crying out "Eat More Beef!". Rotissaried chicken is truly a hot commodity here, as in all of France. But beware - Americans, you will pay at least double the price you're accustomed to. What you get in France is poultry, not the mass-produced, chemical fed lot that's prevalent in our society.
If entering Antibes via Nice or Cagnes the first landmark to be encountered is the Fort Carrre situated protectively in the harbor and reminiscent of times and tales long since passed. This impregnable eight-pointed bastion now serves as a monunent to Napoléon, who used this as a stop-over from Elba to Waterloo - maybe he should have stayed a little longer!
Stroll along the 17th century Port Vauba in the early to mid-morning hours when the sunlight is at its best for a breathtaking view. It's no wonder that this area attracted artists and authors alike. The air is pure, the colors are vibrant, the climate is mild year round. French author Guy de Maupassant used to anchor his "Bel Ami" here. If you haven't read his short story "The Pearl" it's a nice divergence.
Separating the port from the Vieille Ville are the 17th century ramparts built by the Romans. This particular entrance, the smallest, is known as la Porte marine and was for centuries the only entrance to the town from the sea. Along Quai Rambaud outside of the ramparts you can find the Chantier Naval Opera (museum) which houses some of Jacques Cousteau's relics from the Calypso and welcomes each year an international music festival. To the right, upon entering the porte you find yourself in front of le boulevard d'Aguillon, one of the most animated "rues" of Antibes. The fountain d'Aguillon pays homage to the military personnel who provided for the citizens of Antibes a water "pure et limpide".
Continuing into the Vieille Ville from the ramparts, you find yourself on la Tourraque Masséna, in the midst of a host of outdoor cafés and bars. This ancient street leads to the Market a few hundred yards away. The buildings which line a Tourraque Massena are some of the most famous of the Cote d'Azur. Besides dating from the Middle Ages, the one at #21 was the site of Napoleon's marriage to an Antiboise. It is here that he occupied himself as merchant of soap and olive oil before embarking upon his infamous military career. On certain days, antique vendors fill these cobblestone streets -
Rising watchfully against the clear blue sky of Antibes is the belfry of the former cathedral. Nearby Roman walls have protected the Old Town designed by Vauban.
Across from the belfry is the Musée de la Tour, a museum of local history and traditions. This medieval tower, though not terribly interesting does house the first water skis, invented locally in 1930. This would have been a nice view from on high, but it is rarely open.
Château Grimaldi is today home to the Picasso Museum. This forboding medieval mass still supports it's 12th century Romanesque tower.
Alongside Château Grimaldi is the present day Cathedrale d'Antibes. Built on the site of an ancient temple, this structure boasts a Baroque facade while the choir and apse are Romanesque from the Middle Ages. We are fortunate to have attended Mass here.
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Paris
Well, this is where it all started, finding myself at thirty-something, once all three kids were all in school and I had a little time on my hands. JBP and I made that first unforgetable trek to Europe and after only one day in la Ville Illumiere I was in love. This picture of beautiful Notre Dame de Paris was taken a dusk from within restaurant La Tour d'Argent. What a perfect moment and a fabulous meal, thanks Mom!
Notre Dame is one of the world's finest examples of Gothic architecture. It is on this site that druids first worshiped, followed by the Romans, and then the Christians. Pope Alexander III set the building cornerstone in 1163. This was the site of the funeral mass for Louis IX (St. Louis) who had built the beautiful St. Chappelle (below). During the French Revolution, citizens beheaded the statues, believing them to be wordly kings and nobility and renamed the cathedral the secular Temple de Raison. Later, it was reclaimed for Christian worship and in 1804 Napoleon here crowned himself emperor. Notre Dame is also where Paris celebrated its liberation from Nazi control in August 1944.
Marvel at the spectacular yet often overlooked 13th century cathedrale of La Saint Chapelle built by Louis IX to house the Crown of Thorns attained during one of the early cruisades. One of my favorite sites in Paris, she is located on Ile de la Cite and adjoins the Conciergerie where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before her execution. Here is a view of the lower chamber used by the lesser nobels of the court. Access to the upper chamber, reserved for the king's worship is by a very narrow, winding stairway.
Unimaginable stained glass and accoustics in the upper chamber - blessed is the visitor who happens to be there during organ rehersals!
Built by Louis XIV in 1670 for his wounded soldiers who had nowhere else to live. The dome was designed by Monsart. Napoleon is entombed beneath the dome, surrounded by 12 huge white marble statues and 54 flags, each symbolizing one of the litte general's victories. Here too, you will find the Musée de l'Armée,one of the best of it's kind. Open daily, admission charge.
Montmartre is THE place to be once the sun sets in Paris. The lighted Sacre Coeur sits like a jewel on the highest point of the city. From her steps leading to the city at her feet, a multicultural musical extravaganza fills air each night. One of the most phenominal views of Paris is from here. Bustling behind her is a quartier of street artists and wonderful cafés serving Real French Onion soup and magnificent mouille frites (steamed mussels and fries). My favorite is La Mere Catherine.
A true celebration of world cultures here - live music, good onion soup, and an unforgetable view! On my last trip with students, I managed to 'get lost' for a while here. Behind the church and down one of the steep alleyways I heard the most melodious, angelique sound I've ever heard. There were 2 young girls practicing acapella the songs that I would later hear them perform on the steps with all of Paris as an audience. It was one of those magical moments that I shall never forget.
Well, this is where it all started, finding myself at thirty-something, once all three kids were all in school and I had a little time on my hands. JBP and I made that first unforgetable trek to Europe and after only one day in la Ville Illumiere I was in love. This picture of beautiful Notre Dame de Paris was taken a dusk from within restaurant La Tour d'Argent. What a perfect moment and a fabulous meal, thanks Mom!
Notre Dame is one of the world's finest examples of Gothic architecture. It is on this site that druids first worshiped, followed by the Romans, and then the Christians. Pope Alexander III set the building cornerstone in 1163. This was the site of the funeral mass for Louis IX (St. Louis) who had built the beautiful St. Chappelle (below). During the French Revolution, citizens beheaded the statues, believing them to be wordly kings and nobility and renamed the cathedral the secular Temple de Raison. Later, it was reclaimed for Christian worship and in 1804 Napoleon here crowned himself emperor. Notre Dame is also where Paris celebrated its liberation from Nazi control in August 1944.
Marvel at the spectacular yet often overlooked 13th century cathedrale of La Saint Chapelle built by Louis IX to house the Crown of Thorns attained during one of the early cruisades. One of my favorite sites in Paris, she is located on Ile de la Cite and adjoins the Conciergerie where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before her execution. Here is a view of the lower chamber used by the lesser nobels of the court. Access to the upper chamber, reserved for the king's worship is by a very narrow, winding stairway.
Unimaginable stained glass and accoustics in the upper chamber - blessed is the visitor who happens to be there during organ rehersals!
Built by Louis XIV in 1670 for his wounded soldiers who had nowhere else to live. The dome was designed by Monsart. Napoleon is entombed beneath the dome, surrounded by 12 huge white marble statues and 54 flags, each symbolizing one of the litte general's victories. Here too, you will find the Musée de l'Armée,one of the best of it's kind. Open daily, admission charge.
Montmartre is THE place to be once the sun sets in Paris. The lighted Sacre Coeur sits like a jewel on the highest point of the city. From her steps leading to the city at her feet, a multicultural musical extravaganza fills air each night. One of the most phenominal views of Paris is from here. Bustling behind her is a quartier of street artists and wonderful cafés serving Real French Onion soup and magnificent mouille frites (steamed mussels and fries). My favorite is La Mere Catherine.
A true celebration of world cultures here - live music, good onion soup, and an unforgetable view! On my last trip with students, I managed to 'get lost' for a while here. Behind the church and down one of the steep alleyways I heard the most melodious, angelique sound I've ever heard. There were 2 young girls practicing acapella the songs that I would later hear them perform on the steps with all of Paris as an audience. It was one of those magical moments that I shall never forget.
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